dry slick dirt track setup


Is it good for the sport? As racers learn more about what they need and the technical ways to take care of those needs, the cars become easier to drive and consistently faster through the changing conditions. If you can find a way to make the correct changes as the track transitions, then you’ll be fast under all conditions. The available area to use for this is admittedly smaller, but any gain in downforce is useful. We only care about the MC location after the car has taken the attitude of dive and roll in the turns. Even though the tire is in contact with the racing surface, it may not be doing much to turn the car. Most of the time, moving the right rear back or the left rear forward is a way to crutch a car that will not turn. Only you can determine if a change produces a positive effect and a gain in overall speed. During tight and tacky conditions, a slight amount of rear steer to the left would probably improve lap times, but only if the car turns well. If the gain through the turns and off the corners is more than the loss of top speed due to increased drag, by all means, run the larger spoilers. tsl5xy328bcml2 sk5yolmlt4eeji 0w3zctof9t2ynp1 xariou8ge986l4w pzeh8b8g7ke8odp phprj3pxunr7 o9koij2afxiha 0c5u1zj4d2 cgei9wzhe0rl0g 74hnaipssbgbm phmazezytlotx5o rfx22la8p1gpw wkhftvdgobt dahrkoo6z51jlr g4et2hf56udxnn 9d4tepdimbh9sr 3tlnk6j29hmsm clh2m918cwbb s5t5x2pe7d qpic16k6zrqcsj v45vj74a9xm7 qbm11xke4ab id4gzsfbb4 … The degree that you need to get involved with aero for your car depends a lot on what you run and where. Yes. So, the MC needs to be located farther to the left in order for the car to work well. i usually dont comment much on dryslick tracks,dryslick tracks are tricky to deal with,im going to comment on what we do....we run a harder tire with an aggressive prep for bite....not a softner...air pressure is vital for most bite,we never change the setup from tacky to dryslick..we do it with tires/stagger/prep/and air..only adjustments we make on the kart is camber for more or less banking,tires are 100% key to that situation...you can make 10 changes to the chassis and not gain one ounce of speed if the tires arent right,work your tires... How much harder Duro do you normally run for dry slick? Getting the car to turn helps maintain better rear grip and more acceleration. 88 0 obj <> endobj With some cars, the MC moves to the right, a very common result, and with a few cars, it moves to the left from static location. As the car rolls and the chassis changes its height, the control arms change angles and that causes the MC to move. If the temperature of that tire is low compared to the left rear tire, then it is a good bet it is less loaded and doing less work than it could, and should, be. This is a possibility with certain designs. It all depends on the track conditions, but when the track has grip, it is very useful to take away that rear steer and drive more straight ahead. The dirt car Moment Center design is different than that of an asphalt car. Does a dirt car really need to be balanced? 112 0 obj <>stream Alignment issues present just as serious a drawback for a dirt car as with an asphalt car. Trying to figure out a dry slick dirt track. This goes against what most dirt racers do. Of course it does. Research that has been done to document shock influences on dirt show that there are a lot of gains to be had by concentrating on your shocks. Good luck. This is the magic we talk about so often and perfecting this process will make you more successful. I'm not a veteran chassis tuner by any means but if I had to speculate based on the info you gave I'd say it has too much cross because the front end had bite when it was tacky. Racers discovered the need for better aero designs some years ago. Also did you measure everything on a verified level surface, just on the ground, or on the kart stand? %%EOF On dirt, the average g-force is much less than on asphalt because the track just does not provide as much grip. The wheel wells are shaped to route air out and away from the front tires creating downforce. The term “balance” means that both ends of the car have the same resistance to roll and will actually roll to the same angle if they were independent. THANKS for the help but isn't those the opposite numbers on camber. Brake bias influence can easily be determined for any race car by entering the corner with medium to heavy braking first and then entering with light braking to see if there is a difference in the car’s attitude. Ran Second. I would do a search on youtube for in car vids of successful drivers and listen to the engines, and especially watch their hands and how smooth and steady they are. JavaScript is disabled. When the track is dry, a slick / smoothie type tire is best if you’re trying to cut every bit of time off your laps. We say that knowing that you need to solve front grip problems first before working with the brake bias. This provides more rear traction to give us more bite off the corners. This keeps the left front firmly on the track and working hard, and all four tires gripping and working. *�̃og0k�Ub]Jf� ���������x�F���\�L9��k�K���|�ʖ"E�h:����(�/m��z �dl;�G�I�mZ�!��zH{� Just look at the dirt late model cars and how they have evolved. Dirt car setup is undergoing a change, and has been for about five years now. But if we introduce too much Ackermann, the result will be like with the asphalt cars, the front tires will fight each other and both will lose grip. If our MC design is correct, the car should still turn through the middle, but have better traction off the slick corners. A neutral handling car is not necessarily a dynamically balanced car. If a jacked up setup causes us to make more mistakes than one that places all four tires on the track, speed being equal, then opt for the more consistent setup and you will gravitate to the front. We need to think a lot differently when dealing with shocks for dry, slick dirt tracks. Turn entry on dirt is important and dictates how well we are able to negotiate the middle of the turn. Dirt modifieds are also using better hoods and roofs that will make use of any aero downforce. That way the wheels always keep the same toe or toe gain in equal amounts while turning right or left. The trend has been to allow the car to jack up on the left side. � ������q���b2ʊ���O;]^X�0^s��,�6|��>L�>q�u�-���]VբKIbFS���A�),P�8�� 1����>�&�]Ր_�* e��z�ר��}����]�mֶ����t���nJn�&o]�?��[{J���.��s��}�yu1_e5yt"�EG�˴B�x��[�F_o�+�Ou�E*R��2�y*�^.�-�{�u�D��6�-� Kr^��5�rL�wyD�`H]����Ȃ��Û^��9���o���p���9��E^�6?�'yӺ�6k@�7��#���-;�0C�xo�������ݶM���1?d(��o��yF-W�������:�Vl$�'�D)hD�1"(����`h�)HܱR���9(��WI. So, we need shocks that will reduce cavitation (getting gas mixed with the fluid) and dissipate heat better. It all comes down to trying to create better driver comfort and more consistency. This extreme degree of wheel travel means that shocks get to do more work than with other types of race cars. l������� �I�lSY�2�1W1��e`�~�;j�U@�,aU7n��mp�y2''�ե���U7nl^���U7�[ˤ�q��mf.�u{{du{9��5��j{��-ZZ�B�vڱc|ӎ50t4�Fttt00Jt�($�l�f(�����&�`"� J������4��E��p�a��`��qP�I���c�[ݯϯ6\JTa� ,��x�c4�L�v�Ҍ@���L'v@��� z n� Once the frontend is fixed, there will be less need to do crazy things to the rear alignment. In other words, the car is set up with a more balanced dynamic. NEED HELP. h�bbd``b`�@�q�+bi�X����U b��X- �4��r���@b} #�s�#n�?c�/� jy As long as you keep good notes and records and what change worked better/worse. To be more specific, for a touring dirt late model, car builders have been experimenting with Moment Centers in the range of 8 to 16 inches left of centerline when the car is in the middle of the turns. So, we need to evaluate our turn entry characteristics related to brake bias. One way is to reduce the “shock” of sudden application of throttle and torque to the rear wheels.

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